Out on the Town
Coffee culture
In the first half of the 20th century, if you wanted to track down well-known writers, poets and painters, it made more sense to enquire about their regular coffee house (kávéház) than their actual address. Today, this institution is being revived, Budapest is full of dark corners and grand halls, making it a haven for idlers and thinkers. Take the time to enjoy a cup of coffee and choose from an extensive array of delicious home-made cakes and pastries. Traditional favourites include the Gerbeaud on Vörösmarty tér, Ruszwurm in the Castle District, the Centrál Kávéház near Ferenciek tere, and the Művész Kávéház opposite the State Opera House. If you have a sweet tooth, you will find it almost impossible to walk past the Sziget Cukrázda opposite the Vígszinház (Comedy Theatre) on Szent István körút or Hauer on Rákóczi út, near Blaha Lújza tér. If you are looking for something a bit more down-to-earth, check out one of the city’s many presszós – Bambi Presszó is the pick of the bunch – like entering a socialist time warp.
If you prefer an afternoon coffee in a relaxed atmosphere, or some good food to go with your fine Hungarian wine, Raday utca (starting at Kálvin tér on the blue M3 metro) offers a whole pedestrianised street of cafés and restaurants. Leafy Liszt Ferenc tér (near Oktogon and next to the Music Academy) is also very popular, particularly in summer, and the area around Mikszáth tér (get off the 4 or 6 tram at Baross utca and head towards the Danube) is Budapest’s best kept secret. Szent István tér, in front of the enormous Szent István Basilica, is the home of sophisticated cocktail bars and restaurants like Leroy, Tom and George, Mokka and Negro, as well as the more homely Café Kör in Sas utca.
A wild night out
Budapest has always been a party city, and the streets are buzzing with young people of all nationalities at all hours of the night or day. For better and for worse, Budapest’s nightlife culture has undergone something of a transition in the last decade. The low-brow stand-up söröző (beer hall) and the dingy borozó (usually a wine cellar) are being superseded by shiny bars and theme pubs of all shapes and sizes. And if you don’t know your way around, it sometimes seems that there is very little real Hungarian-style drinking in between. Of course, this isn’t true at all – venues offering something a little different include Kuplung, a converted garage in Király utca, Tokaji borozó, a recently renovated wine cellar popular with drinkers of all ages, and Piaf, where the red velvet décor of a brothel goes down well with that very last early-morning drink. For a comprehensive listing of the available options, if which there are very many, consult your trusty guidebook, or pestiside.hu for the hottest tips.
Live music
Whatever night of the week it is, particularly in summer, there is more than enough going on in Budapest to satisfy all tastes - from big-name bands in the Sportarena and Petőfi Csarnok, to the Jazz Garden and underground venues like A38 ship, Mokka Cuka! and Tűzraktár. Check the three free Hungarian-language listings magazines – Pesti Est, Exit or Flyerz – for up-to-date information.
The Great Outdoors
It is in summer that the city really comes alive, thanks to the recent boom in outdoor bars, many of which are situated in derelict courtyards, such as Szimpla kert (“kert” means garden, but this one is even open in winter) and West Balkán. Fans of electronic music (and the capital’s prettiest girls) flock to Hajógyári sziget (Shipyard Island), where Budapest’s top clubs operate summer sister venues and entry is free. If you can’t make up your mind, the A38 boat a floating live music venue, Zöld Pardon with more of a booze 'n' rock ‘n’ roll following, and Café del Rio, where you will be expected to make more of an effort, are all clustered around the Buda side of Petőfi híd.
For the Wallet
Beer can cost less than a pound (350 Ft), but expect to pay up to two pounds (700 Ft) in the more upmarket places, particularly in top clubs and obvious tourist traps. Wine ranges from cheap, low-quality table wine to reasonably priced delights that can more than hold their own on the world stage. Expect to pay 1,200 Ft on average for cocktails and 500 Ft for spirits, although high-end pálinka (fruit brandy) can set you back as much as 1,000 Ft – but certainly hits the spot after a hearty meal.
